Thursday, May 31, 2007

Dennis Cove


Known by the children as "Stony Beach", much of the time you can walk along here skirting the mud flats all the way to the outskirts of Padstow proper. But at high water, as now, it becomes a string of places along the coast path where you can get down to the water: each one the merest stony edge of foreshore. From Dennis Cove you look out onto the Camel estuary, now a flat expanse of shallow water dotted with little boats, and watch the 'weather' as it changes minute by minute.

Wednesday, May 30, 2007

Porthbeor


Strong winds off the sea make it unexpectedly chilly in spite of the sun, and the sand scours away at your exposed parts. It's almost high water, but when you stand at the water's edge the occasional wave still rises up wildly close to shore, as if alive, to swallow you into the churning surf...

Saturday, May 26, 2007

Restronguet Weir


The most pleasant way to experience this beach is to sail up the sheltered waters of the Carrick Roads to Mylor creek and moor up at the famous Pandora Inn, and from there (after a fine lunch and a pint of beer) stroll the short way along the coastal path to this small gravelly patch. Otherwise, the roadmaps and signs are not helpful - for this is a local beach with the feel of a small neighbourhood park, where waterside residents come to walk their dogs and chat briefly, or launch their little dinghies, or watch their kids dissipating excess energy in the cold water.
The afternoon turns a chill gray. Many come and go, nod and smile in passing. None stay for very long.

Friday, May 25, 2007

Summerleaze


On North Cornwall's rugged coast, Summerleaze and the other beaches around Bude provide a welcome haven for surfers and other beachlovers. Today, the chill wind coming in off the sea whips the shallow waves into a messy surf. No fun to stop and linger - you enjoy the beach more as you stay on the move...

Thursday, May 24, 2007

St. Ives Harbour (outside)


Today the low light clouds drift continually across the undulating plateau that is the Cornwall peninsula, making the sea here in St. Ives change minute by minute from sunny turquoise to more muted shades of green. In the shelter of the harbour, the sunseekers share the sand with the beached boats. But if you explore the tiny lanes just to the left of the massive harbour wall, you can find a ramp down to where the low tide exposes a sliver of sand with a glorious view of a misty Porthminster beach across the water. Two laughing girls stop only long enough to cool their feet in the still-cold water, then go on their way...

Wednesday, May 23, 2007

Place


The best thing about this beach is the getting there and back. It is surrounded by private land, and there is no public way to get to it except by boat. Just a small patch of sand exposed by the tide and covered with seaweed. Still, it is in this sheltered area that the heavily protected Falmouth oysters are by law only caught by hand from the traditional Falmouth working boats, their beautiful gaff sails always a treat to see. So I guess I should not complain too much. And rowing the little dinghy in the sun, dodging between the moored St. Mawes sailing boats, is more fun than exercise.

Tuesday, May 22, 2007

Little Perhaver


I come in search of Great Perhaver beach but find this instead, and stay. So unexpected; so often have I stood just a few metres away, unaware. Today, I walk the few extra feet around the rocks and here it is. The impossibly blue sky with just the merest streaks of pale watercolour white brings out the summer crowds to enjoy Gorran Haven, while just around the corner Little Perhaver waits quiet in the sun...

Tuesday, May 15, 2007

Polstreath


Polstreath is another of Cornwall's hidden beaches - unless you are aiming for it, you are unikely to ever just come across it. You descend the steep cliffs down the metal stairs, and in the rain you could almost be on a lost prehistoric beach, even if Mevagissey is just around the corner - a jurassic park come true. Today I am the first, the only one to venture out into the gray rain that hangs in the air, the kind of dirizzle that leeches all the colours from the landscape except for the rich, fluorescent greens that cover these steep cliffs. The traces in the sand are mine alone - yesterday has been wiped clean in the overnight high water that washes over this beach...

Thursday, May 10, 2007

Porthmeor


The soft gentle light disappears even as I approach the beach, giving way to something more sombre. In summer this beach is usually packed, but t he rain comes down heavily and most visitors are taking shelter in the Tate, which sits magisterially just above.

Wednesday, May 9, 2007

Mevagissey


Just a little bit of sand and shingle outside to the right of the inner harbour, and only when the tide is out. But still enough in today's cold blustery wind for three little kids and their mum and dad to enjoy a few hours of fun with their ball, bucket and spade. They leave behind only a small castle rampart and footprints dancing in the sand.

Tuesday, May 8, 2007

Penhale Sands


For reasons unclear to me, Penhale Sands appears to be "blue flagged" as a separate beach, but it's really a continuation of Perranporth - Penhale is backed by imposingly high and deep dunes, and not easily reached except via the former. Between them they stretch out along some two and a half miles of northern coastline, and as far as I can tell I am the only person on it. This afternoon, the intermittent rains become torrential, and in seconds I am absolutely drenched, completely if somewhat miserably in touch with the elements. But what a marvellously empty view...

Monday, May 7, 2007

Portscatho


This is a minor member of the lovely cluster of Roseland beaches. A small beach just by the even smaller drying harbour, but from here you can look right across the blue of Gerrans Bay and Gull Rock in the distance with Dodman Point beyond it. In a sailboat, these are familiar landamarks on the way from Falmouth to Fowey, a popular local run. The rains have disapeared for the moment, the sea laps gently as the tide comes in and the sun arms your back as you sit on the rocks looking eastward along the coast. Out of the picture, Porthcurnick beach is so nearby on the left you could can walk across to it over the rocks, and Carne just pokes out from the further rocks, with Pendower hidden to its left. Strange that I should find the one momentary bright lull in an otherwise gray day...

Tuesday, May 1, 2007

Polridmouth


Polridmouth is a magical beach that can be anything you want, because it opens up your imagination. Today I reach it to find a circle of long-skirted women, holding hands and going widdershins in a ritualistic dance. I reassure myself that they are merely rehearsing for some theatre performance, but stay clear anyway grateful that it is noon, not midnight. Still, it feels in keeping with this secret place, which Daphne du Maurier must surely have used as her model for Frenchman's Creek, just as her nearby Menabilly served for Manderlay.
Come here whatever the time or light, and you may find yourself in another world...